pvkj 2007

Dvu vv
l `p` y[ n cml cml!
n Eno iCb kC unub, kC mbily kub v kCl Ʈ$hl Ʈ$l Pub cu cnl vn! hjbl c n iC Jhjl cu DJ[l Dmuu KhoLJ<- p (cheese) J<! Ekynv pj c ilkj Dml (Thank God, I am not) lj pJ< unub Dmlb `l` pJ< vn!
hC Dmvm l cvv Fljbh# cP pM Kh uJkj hj Pu. c hCm v FbiuM mku jcCyil (hClu mJxlk= MU!) Dmlv cP Ji&l mov i[yu vJ JLa nl. l J[u yymny i[yu (oJCynoj i[yub ƮjbpJ) n h{pl cbl Dmv Dlbl nM, cU nl. movk[ Dc箳 Ji&lu 7-8 cu jp mbOkU Ƭk KUCm p. Mv hjpJUu lb c J[箳 DbiCl Dcn Ƭk KU. yU Fvcoj, hb[uk (hb[l) pM, Jp cUJ, mӳ&kbl kukCa, kbl Uk, YiJv yW, J ybO jp mbOkU Ƭk KUCm pcl Dm. yN JU yymny Dcnu `k@[yj` @ku . yymnybcU cP `k@[yj`M DUK Pu! n DJC cu Pu c 1983-84 cO `k@[yj hmd` DO# mj S[^v k@[yj bv Yu lJn DC yymny i[yubvǮ cP J p DUK kv ou!

 

Sk mbOkU yymnybv Dcn cub nlJj Skk If hC vn DC uyuyl hC vn, DM hb{j jbi J[ Ju. J[ Klv knlj JiUǮ J uiu. mOjC lj Dbymj `oO` J nl. DM JǮ hoL& hJa Kuub DJl vJnlb cnCv yymnybv Jjub k n k Dn! yymny cnCu, p DC lbv `Dcu` p [y oKJu. lvblj yymnybk[ lb Dcjklu `mJkj` D[vJ c$ Du nl. lbv yymnybv Dcjkv p Y ou. llu Skk J[ Dcn c$bn nl Du. n Dcjkv p `Dcu`cC vJnlb. Dio If nlb DC hJUmj jbi箳 p Jn `Dcu`h# JiU nl! lvblj kwJƮl DOvcOv kO lj p Ku cUb. c pj l cvv mKJml kbyl pvcu Dmu DC oob S. m. m.cOu vkjv JiJiU blblu JiJiU Ljb DC hjoM ukbMn mbybO Du lj n cni[ Jml Dc箳 Ijl kO Du vn.
pM `Kj` mbybO Du Fbiub[cO 1976 mu Duvblj. hJ&l mbmk=llv hƽcl mbmk=ll Duvblj miUb vJv nlb.
cu DC Dvu cUl vJv nm DC llv vJv pil Duu. jp vJvJv iR hj nl nl. vJM mbybO l nl. Fbp hy n mbmL Dn. lk hy $Ǯ Dhu `uku` hy juu Dml n `DhJ&F&`cO Juub nlb. lcU Fbiub[u Duvblj uJkj hy$ I[u. hy n Fbpbb mbmk=lk kW Dn.
hyb pJCn JMhC& Dmlb. `hy-y` J hycO pTv Iu nJ. hy箳 mJl: DM Km [Mm Dmll p H hycO cUll. Fbiub[u Du Du uJkj hy$ I[u. Sk jJJj ohj c$cb[URyjyj Dcn oIn hycO iu. ov-Sk hF uij hl iuvblj Yk mbJov pi Jnu uiu cnCv kTbjJj Juu cvk[ DhDh u# iu. Dvk DhjƮl hoL祮 vJ ll nl hC `MlkN箳 pJC`v (Ploughmens lunch) u# JOub DC Dcn `MlkNb pJC` ciJub. `Ml`M Dc mbybO Fbiub[u Duvblj Dm Du!
yjcvv mcj ov c humd DCv Ju. lkl `yil` (Dlbl J, Jv k[k hC Dlv kjkjl Dm 2-3 H ubyǮ p[ ob[mjK hJ. n lp KJ. vn lj KjKj ob[mjK k[k nl!) Yu c lk[. vov hJMj lj Yju Flk p lk[, uC J iUbymjKb omCjb l jbib J yjk khuu mHjbo箳 H[Ǯb uCb DC yjyj lUuu y箳 hmd J m@u[ Dub. `yil` Jj Pkm uC hub, lJj p lk[ Ju DC Jj `kEki D@hu` uC箳 uh uJv hnu Im Ilu! mJ& hoL& vJv nl, J vJv nl ljn Klv Pkm cp Du.
p Dio If Hk hJUmj jbib, mOjC i[mj, `Ƭc` DC mJo-J nlb. Flkb J nlb k, Dp Fbiub[cO 30 J<祮Jj JmlJ Pub lj p cnub k hnubo Kuu `[dj` (Cheddar) p DJC nl! `[dj` n pilu pYbv Fbiub[ oCi Dn.
Fbiub[cOu `[dj` knCǮ mJl nl Dio jcv kUhmv. jcv ukbv Fbpbv hnubo p oub. 16 J Mlkhmv `m@cjm` hjiClu `[dj` i@p& ( uK J<hmv vmi&v vc&C kuu in, uC Dnl. Dlbl #Cdz Dnl) pJUu `c[h numd` (Medip Hills) iF oOhmv kuub l `[dj` p!
`[dj` n yv箳 mJl: pcOub mJxlk= p. p yvuhmv KCm i hjhkwJ (mature) nCm h J<祮 kuJO uil! pj piYj `[dj` k@h nl Dmu lj Kj `[dj` n [WijU iJlU [Wijbv Yjuu `[@jmd` (Dorset), [Jnv (Devon) DC `m@cjmd` (Somerset) hjiClu n. h{vd h{ Fbpb Dnj `[dj` p n DJYp Yi Dn. nlv yvJuub, kh[l ib[Uuub vjM (unpasteurized) oOb p KCb cnCC `Fbiub[` J KCb n! lphC Jm Dmuub L[bmb i[ DC `mJnj` (savoury) DC `v` (nutty) uiCN `[dj` p J k l JC&J! `[dj` ibO, mJm `Ml l Ml` youl hC oOb `cbl` i[mj J, Dcu Kvov Puk (classic acid tang) DC oI&kU lW[Jj jWiUCj mJo cnCp `[dj!`
`m@cjm` hjiClu `cBdi@cj` (Montgomery) `kv` (Keens), `v` (Chewton), `v` (Greens) DC `[Jnv` hjiClu `kwJkd` (Quichs) DC `[vn` (Denhay) n m `[dj` pm Dnl. pmdv c p uku Dn l Dphl!
`MlkN箳 pJC`cO Dcnu p mHjbob (cooking apples- n KC箳 mHjboh# JiU Dmll. Dio Dhu kjmjKǮ Dby uill. Dv mHjbohmv hvnb, Dby [U, uCb kjl. Kjb Jl vn k kjSJp cooking apple Jhjub Dn!) uCb oub lv `[dj` J vƽl J{Ju! JnvijcO mKj Iuv cooking apple yjk khuu lk[ MpJll. D#jM: iUbymjKb n uCb uilb. cnC c `i[IM` DmucU yilJj uC, uCJj `[dj` cuc kh DC khJj cooking mHjbo箳 iUby Lj p Dlc uiu l Dplil! Dpn c hycO ohj iu lj n `MlkNb pJC` ciJl!
[djvblj pM DUK J{JC箳 Dc箳 Jml hnu i h[u `yjmB W pM. lJn JnJj vnc pnjl `o hB`, `o JnB`, `o yjmB` (du pain, du vin, du boursin) DM! cnCp `hJ, JF&v DC yjmB! W Y<l hJm `hB` cnCll lj hl&ip Y<l `hJ`, Jv Dhuk[ `hJ` n Myo Du DmJ. hl&ipbv Yjll hJ Lc DCu. l `hJ` cnC cnCv DhC `hJ` cnCu uiu Dm. `yjmB` n p lj kv `yjmB` vJ箳 W i=nmLbv Dhub vJ D#jM: IjIj hnJub. 1957 mu `v@cP` W oMlu oO DC c hmv `yjmB` yvJu mJl ku. `yjmB` n `lp` (fresh) p kj Dmv mOjChC 10 oJmbl n p hjhkwJ (mature) nTv KCm lj nlb. iu Dkjlu yjmB Ƭc hb{N jbil lb J D@ucvc H@F&ucO ib[Uuub Dmlb J 75 l 150 @c Jpv箳 `iu p[ J[` cUll. W yilJj J Ij Ypuu mJj L[mb uC uJv lJj `yjmB` cmlhk Lj h[ DC nuk lW[l m[. umCǮ nukwM Jmv (yJ[bl pJ{ umC Dml mOjC lJ{ umC `yjmB`cO Dml.) `yjmB` uppl kn Dj l.
jhdz oM oO箳 yyll mc= Dnl. lcU lk oMl Dvk kjb p lj nlb. lk oM箳 p mJl: DM Kml Dn. p Dkj p yvJCN oOJubv jJCSJp oMk `pD@u@p` (geology) DC ukmbK kM hmju Dn bv jJu. [WijU Yilu MlkNbv oO Sk$ kv mnkjv p cc `kb` yvJu DC GvnU m nF&hl p m kv GvnUl [WijU Yilv Ku KNl JkCm p DCCm mJl ku lj mhJju iJlU KNblu Mlkj DJ[箳 ypjl p Jku DC uiu. p Dkj p Yb[l on Jv llu hC k{ub iub l Yb[bJj DJubyv nl. [WijU Yil uk[ Yb[ (moulds) Jhju iu lj yjC, JCuu hu Do kj mh, iJlU Yil Jhju iu.
p lj kjCm oOb on DC JiUb muub hC (whey-liquidd) lj kjJb uilb. ol vm, oOlu Dbi i[J J mKj (lactose) DC oOlu `m` (fat) Dml DC muu hC JiU k{uu hCl L[M vm Muuk jnll. DhC Kb[ kwk kjCm pcC hbl on ib[Uv bil DC Ku箳 Yb[bl olub miUb hC pmb iUlb lcC oO mOjChC 30 mW. Flkb lhJll lcU oOlu `u@kwpd` (lactose) Jj `u@kwkd y@kwjv` nuu {Jv `u@kwpd`b `u@kwk D@m[`cO hblj kjll DC oOb nUnU on Jnu uilb. oOb on JnJb cnCv DhC pmb JjpC Iul lcC oOl `m&j kuj` (starter culture- ) pl Km vJ[uu `y@kwj` Dmll- Iull. on kjC箳 Ƭlu kn `y@kwj`Flk Glmn Dmll k, pcO y[y[ Duu EkJ Ykb h[uu omll.
`ScWv@u` (Emmental) mJm pcO DM Ykb h[uu omll. oOl vmi&l: n y@kwj Dmll, hC oO pj `hjF&p[` Dmu lj c$ y@kwj cc IuJ uill.
JjpC Iluvblj on nC Ƭ m Dmlv on DOk If JnJb cnCv kD@iub (Coagulant) Iull. `jv` (rennet) n mj&m Jhjub pCjb `SvPF&c` (enzyme) on If nCm Km Ghi jub Dn. Dbpj jm, Euy jm, lcuh$ bn Jhj hJa nl Dm. olu mJ& hC vIv iuvblj (n kjCm p yvJCj Mlkj JJO kj ci&, Ƭ, GhkjC DC hl Jhjll.) Dio If o kU (blocks) lj kjll. kUb Dkjn iu, kv, GY, uby Dmll. lvn hC EkJ `Jn` (whey) ykl jnl. Dio kj[b If on Pub k `p kwu@L`cO Iuv m箳l Jll DC lJj nuk oy Jv oyv Jll. vblj m箳lv `p kwu@L`cOv n on k{ll DC hjl vJv kh[l ib[Uv vJ m箳l DOk oyKu hjl Sk-ov oJm Jll. vJv m箳lu on 25-30 ku Jpvb Dm Mklb! n M on ci m箳lv ynj k{ll, vhC khll, vJv kh[l ib[Ull EkJ Lard vJ箳 lh (jyǮ) vnlj Dio hlUM kCk uh pYJl uJll DC lhcv vb$l Kul on hjhkwJ (mature) p nCm Jv oll. p hlǮb p Dmu lcC hjhkwJ nCm JU uil. kn Km pm hjhkwJ nCm 1~~-2 J<祮 kU uil! l kUl l kU mjK GY, D[J, Jj, Ku nuJl jnll, lcU ocOu Muuk jnuu mJ& y<h ynj h[lb. cP DJ[Ǯb `[j` p Dmb yvlb! mJ& kj pm DL&l DMǮ lj nll. H `hkwJl` (maturity) kU p箳 kjcC youl.
p mOjCl: ml kj Dnl. lpb p (fresh cheese), vm|ik kJb p (natural rind cheese), cT hb{N kJb p (soft, white rind cheese), `cOc- cT` p (semi- soft cheese), If p (hard cheese) `vU` p (blue cheese) DC `Km` p (speciality cheese). iu 30-31 J<lu Fbiub[cOu JmlJl, jhcOu Ykbll p箳 mln kjb cvcjo DmJo Iu cUu. lcU hCj ƮldhJvb `p-Ybl` hblj Pub. H Dl cOcn PucU `p DmJoJj` ybOvb Du. kjC pcO k@ujp Dio Yjuu! ljm cPmjK cOcn p Ybm `k@p p` (cottage cheese) DC l DmbK kj GhuyO Dnl! lcU `KN` p lnv `k@p` pJj YiJl.
`lp` (fresh) pcOu cP DJ[l pm cnCp k `H` (Feta), Fuv `jk` (Ricotta), `cPjuu` (Mozzarella), vmb `yjmB` (Boursin) `cp ` (Fromage Frais) DC u u (Le Roule) hjbl i, cW{, ykj, `` (Eue), cnm, jv[Dj, k, Gb b oOhmv lj Puu J jh, Gj J o#C Dcjk, D@m^u, vPub[ DC Yjl (n EnomLv! J< DhC vblj yu!) Lu 84 pm cu cnl Dnl!
Dpn hƽcl pil lpb p kjCm iF&b oO Jhjll. H kh[ hMJbSJp humk hMJ Du Dnl! lp pu vm|ik `kJ` lj nl vn lcU n p Dlv J ynv mjKb omlb. lpb p cT Dumj Dmlb kjC ll y<h (moisture) Kh Dmlb cnCv uJkj Kjy nlb. oOlu `cyp`v (microbes) DC JjpCm (rennet) oOlu mKjb u@kwk D@m[cO hblj kjCm JU cUl vn. lcU oOlu `H@` EkJ `vm` pJUpJU lMǮ jnll. cnCv lp p Jm, ibO mc Dml. knm Dbym Dml J pvJjv Kuuu N (flora) L[m Jm l. lyjyj pvJj箳 kjcCn Jml, ibOl you nl. DL&l lcU `lpb` p n i k cW{ J ykjǮ oOhmv kub Dn n DUKCb DJI[ plb.
`H` k p hkƬ hnubo ncjv unu Flkb `H` (knmb Kj, cT DC crumbly Dmlb) n pvb p Dn. hJ& jh DC cO hJxl Dpvn pv h{v omN h{m mbiluu hkƬcC `H` lj kjll. hjbhjk p yvJC箳 Ƭl `` (eue) b oO Jhjl, hC p箳 kjKvlv ynj h[Cjb `H` n iF& oOhmv lj kjll. `jk` (Ricotta- whey cheese) n m, Fu J mk@vdd[vJnv oMb ynj pml m vn. hC pil pL k Fuv Jml Dmu lL `jk` JkCj Sk lj `[u` (deli) Dmu! `jk` cnCp `hjl MpJuub` (re-cooked) DL&l lcU `jk` Dio If, y<h (moist) DC vpk oCoj Dmlb. `jk` Km kv mjC (stuffing) cnCv J `yEki` hoL&l Jhjll, kjC b 'lumpy texture' ijc kub, lhJub lj lmb jnlb. `jk` mbhC& oOhmv yvJll EkJ Jn DC oO b cClv lj kjll. Fuv mJbhk `jk` MJ nT Mkl vn! `lCuu` ob (stretched curd) p iu npj J<& nl Dn. cO hJxlu Ykw pl Dhu MU J cW{hmv n p lj kju uiu. vblj nUnU l mj hJ& J cO jh YcO mc箳 Dmhm Pu. Dp Dio nbijhmv Fm$Su, mmhl `lCuu` ob p nlb DC Fulu `cPPjuu` lj pim Dn. mOjC mnJ Mlkl Fuv ukbv MU J cW{箳 oOSJp cnMǮb oO Jhju mJl ku Dvd Dp `lCuu` ob mJxlk= p cnCp `cPPjuu [ yHu` (Mozzarella di Bufala- cnm). `KN` cPPjuul lj y<h (moisture) Kh pml Dmlb DC `Hwu@h` (floppy) Dmlb. i[mj, cnMǮ oO `jǮvm` Dmuub n p hPPcO c cCJj Jhjll. `cPPjuu` `lCuu` op& vc&C nCm on ijc hCl mll Iuv ijc on lCl jnll, Flkb k on Sk cjhl lCub iub hnp. hC&hC lCuu o yjk iU kv Kj hCl kll, lcU iUb ynj `kl[` lj nl DC ci lbv Dkj v Cm Jv oll. FucO `y` Dkjl cPPjuu cUlb DC kn oJml l mbhJJb uilb.
W `cp ` (Fromage Frais) cnCp `lp` pm Sk Km i, mcn Dn. DocN o箳 (unripened) JmjKb n p L[mb Dbym uilb DC l `y<h` (moisture) Kh Dmlb. pvJjcC `H@`b cC youlb. `cp ` kCln C箳 oOhmv lj kjll J KCi (mature) nCm 15 oJm uill. `cp yuB` (Fromage Blac), `h mJm` (Petit Swiss), `MJnj ` (Chevre Frais), `HBvyu` (Fontaineblean) Do vJ vmcO m Dnl.
`H` pu kal `yP hvj` (Beyaz Peynir) cnCll. Jv Dhuk[ `hvj` n Myo Du DmJ. Dp Yjl pil mJl pml oO vc&C kjCjb j^ Dn! lcU Dhuk[ Dl mj&m Dio K[iJlvm hvj cUu uiub Dn. `hvj`u hƽcl pil `lpb` p cnCv DUKll DC cP cl DhC `lp` p D#jM: kMln Jhj kjl DC hoL& J iCl kjl.
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`Emiu` EkJ `[yu` chmv yvJuub `c p` Dp piYj lj nlb. DhC Kb[ kwk pm lj kjl lmb `c` p lj nlb. l DLa kwkn `c` p Dn Dmb cnCu njkl vn. `c p` 2-3 oJmbl mbhJJb uilb.
`k@ccdyj` (camembert) n cTmj, ynv D#jM: lboU h LhumjKb YmJb DM hb{N DJjCb p hnubo Kuub vmcO. vm箳 `vc[` Yilub `k@ccdyj` n p (Camembert de Normandie) Dlbl m Dn. mOjC cMc mhmjK Jm Dmuub. `m` (yeasty) DC yjǮM cbmmjK J Dmuub n Ƭc p Dc箳 mJhvuu Hj DJ[lb. `c @kj`u L[mb `k@ccdyj` uJv Ku Hj Pkm uilb.
cnv p lp% `h@^k j@vm` (Patrick Rance) b cl 1790 mcjm k@ccdyj pvc `n@ju` kbyl Pu. cj nju Dhu kbyhjlb mkuub hJUmj, lhkj p yvJ箳. 1789 mu箳 W jpbll nju kbyv Sk W hm D ou nl. Ghkj hjlH[ kjCm l hoNv cj yFv mJl: p lj kjCb %v oub DC cj yF pb mJo cTmj DC u#l jnCN Jl hblj Pub. Flkb hblj Pub k cj nju箳 cuv pJn Dhub Ijl lj kuub n p omN vhuvu Y oub, lJn lv Jjub k n p k lj Pub Dn ? cj DF& cuv mbilub k@ccyjcO lJn omj vhuv cnCu Dphmv Glk= pb vJ k@ccyj!
Glk= k@ccyj DUKb kmb ? pb ynjb DJjC mjK (fine) Dn, hb{N MY DJjCSJp `D@H-JnF&` DJjC Dn DC l# p jbi lbym-lhkj Dn, k[ jbib Puu vnl, p cTmj (supple), mjK `cMc` Jm Dn l mJxlk= k@ccyj!
hC cu mJl:u cTmj, hb{N DJjC箳 pmhk `y` (Brie) pml DJ[lb. L[m `MjǮ` (Mj n Sk Dlc h Dn!) DC `c-JF&u[- cMcm` Jm Dmuub n p cnCp cP cl Kml Dn. `Fu-[-vm` h@jm箳 F&Mvm (South East) Dmuu Yil `y` lj nlb. `y` pvc F&lnm ƸmlhJ& 774 hl hl! `Mu& c@iv` (Charle magne) yoMnv `y` iJl hnubo `y` J Ilu DC lJnhmv ojJ<a ovo l箳 jpJ[l `y` c cCl hjJ Jnu uiu! `y` Kj cp l HUb JǮ (fruity) lby[ yjib[ EkJ mB-jcuDB `yox` j JCyjyj!
Fbiub[ `m@cjm` hjiClu `k@hdjk@v i` capricorn goat), vӳ@k& jplu `kd Hc& p` (Coach farm cheese), vPub[b `SJnvmd[ud Hc&nTm y` (Evansdale farmhouse Brie). k@uH|vcOu `ncyu H@i` (Humbolt fog), Du[b `mW- kudzv` (St. Killian), D@m^ulu `J[mF[d F&[L` nn cTmj hb{jb vm|ik DJjC Dmuu pm m Dnl.
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